Château La Liquière
We hear a
lot about new wine growers in the Languedoc, but what about the old established
estates? Château La Liquière in Faugères
is one such example. The first sales in
bottle go back to the late 1960s, of wine made by Jean Vidal. His son, Bernard, planted his own vineyards
in the 1970s and then took over his father’s estate, and these days it is his two
children, Sophie and François, who shoulder most of the responsibilities, but
it has to be said that Bernard does not strike me as somebody who would ever
completely retire. Sophie admitted that her father is always
there when they need him, and her mother is still very much involved in the
administrative side of things.
Our visit
began with a look at the vineyards. They
took us up to a wonderful view point, at about 400 metres, where you could see
Caussiniojouls, Laurens, Autignac and on a clear day you would be able to make
out a silvery strip of sea. On Friday it
was simply too hazy in the heat. And we
admired vineyards that Bernard had planted in 1970s and a small mazet that they
are restoring. Bernard talked about the
effect of altitude on the quality of Faugères.
Higher altitude suits white grapes and also Syrah; Carrigan performs
better at lower altitudes. There was a
gentle breeze, despite the heat. And
since 2012 they have been registered as organic, although they have been
practicing organic vulture for much longer.
Altogether they have 60 hectares of vines, in the villages of la Liquière,
Caussiniojouls and Cabrerolles, in some 75 plots. White grape varieties represent 10
hectares, with Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Vermentino, Clairette, Terret blanc, Bourboulenc,
Muscat and Marsanne. And the red varieties are the usual five
classics of the Languedoc.
And then we
went back to the welcoming tasting caveau in the hamlet of la Liquière. Their cellar is in Lenthéric – the Vidals
come from Lenthéric, but Bernard married a Mlle Gaillard from La Liquière. François talked as we tasted, and it was immediately
apparent that he and Sophie have known how to progress and develop their wines.
2012 Faugères Rosé, les Amandiers – 6.40€
50% Cinsault, with Grenache and Mourvèdre. Their Cinsaut is only used for their rosé as they do not have enough to
include it in red cuvées. Mostly
pressed. Quite a light colour, with a fresh
delicate nose. The palate is quite
structured, with some fresh raspberry fruit.
Rounded with good balance. François
observed that the 20% Mourvèdre adds vigour and structure. They’ve been adding it to their rosé for the
last four years, and it has greatly improved the quality. Their oldest Mourvèdre vines were
planted in 1980.
2012 les Amandiers blanc, Coteaux du Languedoc.
From
all their white varieties, except the
Muscat, all vinified separately, à la parcelle, and blended in January and it
is not Faugères, as the appellation does not include Terret blanc, even if Terret was
one of the early varieties of Faugères. It has the advantage of lowering the alcohol
level, ripening at 12˚. A very simple
vinification and certainly no oak élevage.
Light colour. Lots of nuances on
the nose; a hint herbal, a hint peachy,
a touch of white blossom. And on the
palate, a peachy hint, a satisfying bitter note, what they called a legère
amertume, and some white blossom and a stony mineral note.
2012 Cistus, Faugeres Blanc – 11.20€
Roussanne
is the dominant variety, with some Grenache, Vermentino and Bourboulenc. 20%, part of the Roussanne goes into barrel,
and spends six months on its lees. They
put the earlier picked Roussanne into vat and the second picking into barrels,
as it has more body, une belle matière. They found that Grenache doesn’t work
in wood, and their barrels are 500 litres. They have given up on barriques and have also
tried 400 and 600 litre barrels. Light golden colour. There was quite a dry oaky note on the nose,
but the oak was better integrated on the palate, which was rounded and rich,
with good texture. Quite a satisfying
leesy note. A slightly bitter note on
the finish. François feels very strongly
that white wines from the Languedoc can age, and I would certainly expect this
to develop with some bottle age.
And now on
to red wine, beginning with 2012 les Amandiers, Faugères rouge. 6.40€
One third
each of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache, with 8 months ageing in vat. They decide on the blend in January, and the
aim is fruit, and that is what they have achieved with some ripe spice and
black fruit, lots of black cherries and supple tannins. Medium weight with a fresh streak, and a
lightly tannic streak. Spicy and gourmand,
and very drinkable.
2011 Faugères
Vieilles Vignes – 8.90€
Carignan
and Grenache, from vines that are over 50 years old. The cuvée classique of the estate which has
existed since the beginning, when they had very little Syrah and Mourvèdre. 12 months in vat – they’ve tried an élevage
in barrel, but didn’t like it. All the
grapes are destalked and the vinification is traditional; they have not used
any carbonic maceration for their Faugères for the last five or six
vintages. Thirty years ago there used to
be a lot of carbonic maceration all over the Languedoc, but these days people
are better at mastering a classic vinification Deep
colour. More restrained fruit compared
to les Amandiers. Spicy fruit and a
touch leathery. Some red and black cherries and a ripe finish. Good backbone
and structure and drinking well now.
2011 Nos
Racines – 11.70€
Carignan,
planted in 1900, with just 5% Grenache. Élevage
in vat. From the best plot – 1.80
hectares, including about 20% of old Terret that was planted, all mixed up with
the Carignan. Old gobelet vines. Low yield at 15 – 25 hls, compared to the
usual 50 hl/ha. Made for the first time
in 2005. Good young colour. Quite solid and rounded. Some grainy tannins. A very simple vinification. 'C’est la vigne qui parle'. Quite an elegant Carignan, with some
perfumed red fruit. Quite a dry finish,
with some tannins, but also some warmth.
Usually the last vine to be harvested, in late September. Lots of character and some ageing
potential. Very elegant for a Carignan,
and much less rustic than some.
2011 Cistus
– 14.80€
60% Syrah,
with the percentage depending on the vintage, along with Grenache, Mourvèdre
and Carignan. 60% élevage in demi-muids,
just the Syrah component, and the Syrah
grown at a higher altitude. Deep colour. Quite a firm nose, with a touch of
vanilla. Quite tannic on the palate,
with some firm youthful fruit. Plenty of
potential. A lot of matière,
There is
one last red wine in their repertoire, Tucade, which was last made in 2009, and
which focuses on Mourvèdre, with 80 – 90% in the blend. But in 2010 the Mourvèdre was not so good; in
2011 none was made, and they have not yet decided about 2012, so for the
moment, there was none to taste.
And we
finished with a sympa 2012 l’Unique Gaz de Schiste –9.90€
This is a play on words; schist is the soil
of Faugères and gaz de schist is shale gas, which is also a contentious issue
in France. It's a bubbly rosé, 50%
Grenache and 50% Mourvèdre, made by the méthode ancestrale, and for the first time
in 2011. The 2012 has 11 gms/l residual
sugar. The grapes were picked early September,
three weeks early, in order to retain the acidity. Both varieties are pressed
and vinified together, and then bottled.
There is a light filter at bottling and then the fermentation starts
again in bottle. Orange pink colour, and the wine was soft and ripe with some
cherry fruit and fresh acidity, and a sweet note on the finish, making a sympa finale to an excellent tasting.
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